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    18. Soft Taco with Roasted Green Chile and Goat Cheese - Top

    From Local Flavors by Deborah Madison

    Serves 1

    2 long green chiles, such as poblanos
    1 large wheat tortilla
    soft fresh goat cheese
    chopped cilantro

    Roast the chiles until charred*, then drop into a covered bowl to steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Slip off the skins and pull out the seeds, then pull into strips with your fingers. Place the tortilla in a dry skillet over medium heat. As soon as the bottom is warm, flip it over. Put the chile on top, crumble the cheese over it, and add the cilantro. (You can add salsa, too, if you like.) When the cheese starts to soften, slide the tortilla onto the counter, then fold it in half. Press down, wrap in a napkin, sit down, and enjoy.

    * Roasting and Peeling Peppers

    Choose peppers with thick walls if you want to char the skins. Thin-walled peppers need to be watched very carefully and roasted only long enough to loosen the skins, not char them, or the flesh will be consumed along with the skin.

    On the burner: Place whole peppers directly on a gas burner or gas or charcoal grill. Those with electric burners can use an asador (or its equivalent), a small-mesh grill that sits right over the element. Roast the peppers until the skin becomes wrinkled and loose, turning them frequently with tongs. For peppers that will end up soft and slightly smoky, roast them until the skins are completely charred. Put the peppers in a bowl, put a plate on top, and set aside to steam for at least 15 minutes to loosen the skins.

    In the oven: If you want to peel the peppers without cooking them too much, the oven is a better way to go: Cut off the tops of the peppers, then slice them in half lengthwise, remove the seeds and veins, and press down on each half to flatten. Brush the skins with oil, then set them skin side up on a sheet pan. Bake at 400°F or broil 5 or 6 inches under the heating element until the skins are wrinkled but not charred, 10 to 20 minutes. Remove and stack the peppers on top of each other to steam for 15 minutes. (Use any of the delicious juice that collects from the steaming peppers in the finished dish or use it in vinaigrette.)

    Next, slip off the skins with your hand or a paper towel. Don’t worry about getting every little fleck of skin. Now they’re ready to use.

    - Updated: November 30, 2007


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